Day 54: Fryeburg, ME to Woolwich, ME

planning our route while we waited for blueberry pancakes

We were nervous about people being at the canoe launch early in the morning, so we set the alarm early and got out quickly. We had perfect weather, which kept us in a great mood. After just 10 miles, we saw Rosie’s cafe. Desperate for coffee, we stopped. They had pancakes with wild Maine blueberries, so of course, we needed to get those. This took a bit longer that we would have liked, but the pancakes were excellent, and we picked up a whoopie pie (yay Maine!) for later. 

Maine whoopie pies!


The ride was incredibly hilly. The hills and mountains in Maine are nowhere near as high as the White Mountains we climbed in New Hampshire, but they are so steep. This was the kind of grade that makes a cyclist lose all momentum, and walking the bikes probably would have been faster. We are proud to say that we didn’t get off the bikes to do that once, though, not even on the hill into Danville, the hardest hill of the entire trip.

foreground: cultivated blueberries; background: wild Maine blueberries

In addition to the hills, today’s route took us through farmland, lakes, and forests. We stopped at a country store in the middle of nowhere, where they actually had a vegetarian reuben on the menu! We were very happy to have reubens two days in a row. A few hours later, we passed a farm stand with wild blueberries in addition to their own cultivated ones. It’s been years since Rachel has had wild Maine blueberries, so this was very exciting. We passed through Brunswick, the home of Bowdin college, which was a bit confusing to bike through, but a nice change of pace to ride in a bigger town again.

Whitney’s cabins

In Brunswick, we called a place listed on the Adventure Cycling route as a hostel near Woolwich, Whitney’s Cabins. We asked if they had any availability — though they didn’t, they said we were welcome to pitch a tent on their property. Hoping this would include a shower, we agreed that this would be a good option. When we arrived, we met the owner and the caretaker, who said they had gotten a cabin ready for us! For just $25, we had our own cabin with two beds, a small kitchen area, and fresh eggs for our breakfast. The cabins are pretty bare-bones, without running water, but we were thrilled with the accommodations.

today’s ride: 93.1 miles
time in the saddle: 9 hrs, 14 min
total distance: 4,075 miles 


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